By Joan Torres39 CommentsLast updated on October 30, 2023
From green rolling hills to a Mediterranean culture and cuisine, the hospitality of the Arabs, first-class souks, historical cities that are thousands of years old and one of the most interesting political scenes in our modern history, visiting Palestine, especially a tiny region called the West Bank, will definitely surprise you.
Whether you are interested in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, a lover of Biblical and Christian sites or just a backpacker seeking adventure, Palestine is a country adaptable to any kind of traveler.
This guide contains everything you need to know to travel to Palestine, including a comprehensive 2-week itinerary as well as plenty of travel tips.
In this Palestine travel guide you will find:
Table of Contents
- Covid-19 Travel Restrictions
- Quick tips
- Safety in Palestine
- Books I recommend
- The people and religion
- Detailed costs
- Food
- 2-week backpacking itinerary
- Day 1-3 – Jerusalem
- Day 3-5 – Bethlehem
- Day 5-7 – Hebron
- Day 7-9 – Ramallah
- Day 9-11 – Nablus
- Day 11-14 – Jericho
- Jenin – 2 extra days
- Zababdeh – 2 extra days
- Qalqilya – 1 extra day
- More information
😷 COVID-19 Travel restrictions for Palestine
Israel lifted all COVID-related restrictions so as of today, you don’t need to present anything upon arrival in Israel.
Here you can find their official statement.
However, note that some travel reports suggest that your airline might require you to present your vaccine certificate.
Travel Insurance for Palestine with COVID-19 coverage
IATI Insuranceis one of the few providers that offers full Coronavirus coverage, not only when it comes to treatment, but also cancellations costs in case you tested positive before departure.
Readers of Against the Compass can get an exclusive 5% discount.
💡 Traveling to Palestine – Quick travel tips
Wait, West Bank or Gaza? –You probably know this already but Palestinian territories are divided into two regions: the West Bank and the Gaza Strip, both separated by the state of Israel. You can’t enter Gaza unless you are a journalist or an NGO worker.
This article is for those traveling to the West Bank.
If you wish to travel to Gaza, read our travel guide there.
How to travel to Palestine – There are no international airports in Palestine, so you can only enter overland through Israel. The Palestinian border is controlled by the Israeli authorities.
Read more: Israel – Jordan border crossing.
Visa for visiting the West Bank – A Palestinian visa doesn’t exist. If you are in possession of an Israeli visa, you can visit the West Bank. Most nationalities, especially EU countries, USA, Canada,Australia, and Japan, can get afree visaon arrival. For more information, check out this link to see if your visa situation.
Israeli stamps? –The Israeli authorities don’t stamp passports anymore. Instead, they give you a slip containing all your personal information, which you need to keep with you if want to travel to the West Bank. This is quite a controversial topic. You can find all your answers here:Avoid Israeli stamps – FAQ.
Currency –In Palestine, the currency used is the Israeli Shekel.1USD = 3.60ISL. Exchange offices are available throughout the country.
Language –Arabic is the official language. A large proportion of the Palestinian population is well-educated and many speak good English. Taxi drivers and shopkeepers speak very basic English.
When to visit Palestine – The West Bank is a year-round destination, with slightly cold winters and moderately hot summers. Some desert parts, though, like Jericho, can get extremely hot in summer. I would say that either spring or autumn would be the best time to travel to Palestine.
Transportation –Since both the Israeli authorities and settlers need to drive throughout the region, roads are in a very good condition. The West Bank also has an efficient public transport system, connecting all cities and towns.
Typically, you have two options: big buses, which are cheaper but slower and less frequent; orserveece, which are brand new yellow mini-vans that are slightly more expensive but faster and way more frequent. Within cities, towns and between small villages, shared taxis are also very common.
Hitchhiking –While backpacking in Palestine, I hitchhiked five or six times and I never had to wait for more than ten minutes and, even in smaller areas and towns, some cars were stopping voluntarily, asking me if I needed a ride to somewhere. Very rarely, they will ask you for money. It only happened to me once.
Internet / SIM Card –High-speedWi-Fi is available throughout the country. You can buy either a Palestinian or an Israeli SIM card. Palestinian SIM cards are cheap but only have 2G not 3G, so if you want good internet data you must buy an Israeli one, which can only be bought in Israel or in border cities like Kalandia, close to Ramallah. A brand new SIM with one month’s worth of data and calls costs around 90ISL (25USD).
Read: A guide for traveling to Syria (How to get a visa + tips)
⚠️ Is it safe to visit the West Bank and Palestine?
You may also be interested in which countries in the Middle East are safe to visit
For the past few years, whatever you have heard on the news in relation to the war with Israel, has happened in the Gaza Strip, which is an isolated, hermetic and inaccessible piece of territory.
The West Bank is a totally different place that has lived in peace (despite a few clashes) for almost twenty years, since theSecond Intifada.
🚑 Travel Insurance for Palestine
- Covers full travel in Palestine
- Good budget backpacking plans
- Complete COVID-19 coverage
- It covers senior citizens too
- Readers of this blog can get a 5% exclusive discount.
📚 Recommended books for traveling to the West Bank and Palestine
Palestine travel guide by Bradt – The only exclusive book guide to Palestine. Bradt is one of my favorite traveling brands as they give so many tips for the independent traveler and plenty of local insights.
Israel & West Bank travel guide by Lonely Planet – You can also buy the combo from LP, although it is not very comprehensive for the Palestinian Territories.
Walking Palestine – If you are a trekking lover, this is the best book for trekking in Palestine out there.
🕌 People and religion
After traveling to practically all the Middle Eastern countries, I will dare say that Palestinians one of the most hospitable peoples in the region.
Either because they rarely see foreigners, have an international bad reputation due to the Israeli conflict or just because they are kind by nature, the fact is that you should always expect loads of coffee, food and house invitations.
Traveling in the West Bank is extremely pleasant.
Palestine is a Muslim country, Sunni Islam being the most practiced religion.Hebron,Nablusand Jenin are more traditional and conservative, so you should always dress modestly there. Ramallah, a surprisingly cosmopolitan capital, is more laid-back, so isBethlehem, the city with the largest Christian population.
Home to some of the most important Biblical sites in the world, Christianity also plays an important role in the West Bank, not only in Bethlehem but also in several Christian villages around Ramallah and Jenin, like Taybeh and Zababdeh, where even local breweries can be found.
Read: A travel guide to Beirut
💰 Travel to Palestine – How much does it cost?
You will be surprised if I tell you that the West Bank is not a budget backpacking destination, with similar prices to Greece and Portugal. Since accommodation is pretty expensive, I would say that you can’t travel for less than:
a minimum of 25-30USD a day
Accommodation
Airbnb –Definitely, the cheapest option for a couple. You can find double rooms for as little as 20USD.
Hostels –The cheapest if you are backpacking solo but, honestly, they are pretty expensive for what you get. They are available throughout the country and prices range from 50ISL (14USD) to 75ISL (20USD).
Hotels –Personally, I didn’t stay in any hotels, as private rooms were too expensive. Typically, you won’t find anything cheaper than 30USD or 40USD.
Please note that you can find further details on where I stayed further down, in the ”Travel Itinerary” section.
Food
Fast food is cheap but, if you want a bit of a change from shawarma and falafel, you will have to spend some more money.
- Street falafel –3-5ISL (80¢ – 1.40USD)
- Shawarma –8-15ISL (2.20USD – 4.10USD)
- Kebab –10ISL (2.80USD) per piece
- Half a roast chicken with rice –25ISL (7USD)
- Proper, good Palestinian meal –40-75ISL (10-20USD)
Alcohol
- Beer in a bar –15ISL – 25ISL (4-7USD)
- Beer in a store –5ISL (1.40USD)
Transportation
These are the prices of some of the bus, mini-van and shared taxi journeys I took:
- Serveece(mini-van) from Hebron to Ramallah (53km)– 27ISL (7.50USD)
- Bus from Ramallah to Nablus (52km)– 11ISL (3USD)
- Shared taxi within the city of Bethlehem– 3ISL (80¢)
Read: Guide for traveling to Iraqi Kurdistan – Everything you must know
🍲 Palestinian food!
Like its neighborLebanon, Palestine is a Mediterranean country whose cuisine goes far beyond just shawarma and falafels, as many people believe.
From delicious fresh salads,includinghummusand babaganouj, to more elaborate stews and roast dishes, where olive oil is king; if you can afford it, in Palestine, you can also enjoy your way through food.
These are some ofmy favorite dishes:
Makluba –The Palestinian dish par by excellence. Apparently, there are many variations but the one we ate had chicken, rice,cauliflowerand eggplant.Maklubaliterally means ”upside-down”, because, when it’s being cooked, thechicken is placed at the bottom of the pan so, when it’s ready, you pour out the contents, leaving the chicken on top.
Msakhan–It consists of roast chicken placed on an oily slice of bread and topped with chestnuts and loads and loads of onions. It’s quite a heavy meal, so Palestinians have it for lunch.
Fatteh – This is not only Palestinian but from all the Levantine region. it has flatbread, olive oil, yogurt, chickpeas and loads of nuts. It a super powerful breakfast. I freaking love it 😀
📍 Visiting Palestine: A 2-week backpacking itinerary through the West Bank
COVID travel insurance is mandatory for traveling to both Palestine & Israel
I strongly recommend IATI Insurance: COVID-19 coverage + 5% discount
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I spent 40 days traveling in the West Bank and Jerusalem and still I couldn’t visit everything I wanted to. But I like to travel slowy, spending 3 or 4 days in each place.
That’s why, in my opinion, if you only have 2 weeks, the itinerary suggested below is totally feasible. The good news is that, since the region is pretty small, distances between each destination are short and quick.
Map of the Palestine 2-week travel itinerary
Jerusalem – Day 1-3
Why go? Today, Jerusalem is part of Israel but the eastern part of the city is completely inhabited by Arabs. If Palestine ever becomes an independent state, East Jerusalem would be capital of the country.
Being the holiest place for the three main monotheist religions (Christianity,Islam and Judaism) in Jerusalem, if you wanted, you could spend an entire eternity exploring and wandering around the Old City. I spent 10 days there myself but you only need a few days to visit the main sites.
Do you want to visit Jerusalem with a professional local guide? CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE
Things to do in Jerusalem – Highlights
Western Wall –One of the most important landmarks in the city and a very holy place where, every day, thousands of Jews come to pray and venerate it. It is also called theWailing Wallas, during the Ottoman period, Jews would go there and lament the destruction of the previously destroyed Temple Mount.
Church of the Holy Sepulcher –Whether you are religious or not, theChurch of the Resurrectionis an impressive building, where, apparently, Jesus was crucified. You can also find his empty tomb, from where, according to Christians, he rose from the dead and ascended to heaven.
Temple Mount / Al-Haram ash-Sharif –A real landmark, as this is one of the holiest places for both Jews and Muslims. TheDome of the Rockis believed to be the place from where Prophet Mohamed stepped to heaven. The last time I was there, in March 2017, it was only possible to visit in the morning.
Hang out at Yehuda Market and around –For some reason, all travelers always finish their day at Yehuda Market, which is a regular market that, at night, turns into a bunch of small alleys where you can find budget food, beer and an awesome vibe, both local and international. Around this area, you can also find plenty of pubs and bars.Location:31.784976,35.212340.
Mount of Olives –According to the Bible, theMount of Olivesis the place where the Judgement Day will start. And not only that, it is also a great place to watch the sunset over the Dome of the Rock.
Do you want to visit Jerusalem with a professional local guide? CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE
Where to stay in Jerusalem
Budget Hostel – Abraham Hostel – One of the most famous hostels in Jerusalem. Located in the center of the new part of the city, this hostel is the best place to socialize and meet other travelers alike. The owners are great and they organize all sort of activities: from endless tours to pub crawls and much more. This is one of the greatest hostels I have ever been to.
Mid-range Guest House – Allenby2 B&B– This very cozy hotel has been here forever, with hundreds of positive reviews and a very central location. It has a lovely garden, very warm staff and free coffee and chocolate. Overall, a great option for mid-range travelers.
Mid-range Hotel – Hotel Hashimi – A pretty cool hotel in the heart of the Old City with stunning views to the Dome of the Rock.
How to get from the airport to Jerusalem
There are two options. Bus nº485 costs 16ISL (7USD), departs every half an hour or so from the first floor and leaves you at the Central Station.
Sherut (shared mini-vans) cost 68ISL (19USD), depart more often, are faster and leave you closer to your final destination. During Shabat, bus nº485 doesn’t run.
Bethlehem – Day 3-4
Why go?With hundreds of tour groups roaming around, Bethlehem doesn’t give the feeling that you are in the West Bank but, since this is the birthplace of Jesus, it is one of the most visited places in the Middle East.
Apart from all the Christian sites, this is a great place to easily get a close feeling of the consequences of the Israeli occupation.
Things to do in Bethlehem – Highlights
The Wall –In 2001, after the Second Intifada, Israel started building a wall, 8 meters high, which would eventually separate Israel from the West Bank. In the center of Bethlehem, the wall is decorated with progressive and Pro-Palestinian paintings, including a real painting from Banksy. Note that most Banksy paintings are fake and the only real one is the white pigeon.
Aida Palestinian refugee camp –In 1948, after the Israeli-Arab war, the Palestinians were expelled from their native land, being forced to settle down in several refugee camps across the West Bank and other neighboring, Arab countries. Aida is perhaps the most well-known camp, although, in my opinion, it is also the most commercialized. The wall is built rightbesideit and has some very cool graffiti on it.
Dheisheh Palestinian refugee camp –Less visited and way more interesting than Aida, in Dheisheh, you will see the real picture of life ina Palestinian refugee camp. The camp also has loads of very interesting martyr paintings. Actually, I did an Airbnb stay here, one of the best traveling experiences in my life.
You can read about it here: Airbnb in a Palestinian refugee camp.
Please note: Both Aida and Dheisheh are extremely safe and foreigners are always welcome. There is no need to go on a tour unless you want someone to explainthe history of the camp to you. Cameras are also welcome but, if taking any portrait, ask for permissionfirst. It’s a good idea to spend a few dollars at one of their shops or cafés. I’ve been to more than 10 refugee camps. Any question, feel free to ask.
The Church of Nativity and the Old City –Well, you made it all the way to Bethlehem. Perhaps you should go to see the place where one of the most influential people in our human history was born, right? The entrance is free but try to get there early, otherwise, you’ll be standing in the line for hours. The old part the city is also worth spending a couple of hours in, wandering around the different souvenirs shops.
Mar Saba (Day trip) –Constructed in an isolated desert valley during the 5th century, either carved into or built on the cliffs, Mar Saba is an Orthodox Christian monastery, considered one of the oldest inhabited monasteries in the world. Today, around 20 monks live at this impressive monastery and, the surprising fact is that they still live the same way their ancestors used to, meaning that there’s no electricity and cell phones.
Entrance to women is strictly forbidden but either way, you will spend 90% of your time outside of it. How to get to Mar Saba: Located 30km from Bethlehem, if you don’t want to take a taxi, you should take a mini-van to Ubeidiya (4ISL, 1.10USD) and from there, either hitchhike or walk the remaining 5-7 kilometers. Location:31.704939,35.331314.
Where to stay in Bethlehem
Airbnb in Dheisheh –Does it sound scary to you? It shouldn’t. Palestinian refugee camps have been going on over 60 years and, today, they have become mere city neighborhoods. If you really want to have an authentic and ultimate experience, you must stay here.
You can read mywhole experience on this link.
Budget Hostel – Habibi Hostel – This is, definitely, the best hostel in town. Great staff, cozy and clean rooms and a good location make this an excellent budget option in Bethlehem.
Mid-range Hotel – Walled Off Hotel (Banksy) – Located right in front of the separation wall, this famous, thematic hotel is inspired by the work of the artist Banksy. Staying here must be an awesome experience. They have both dorms and private rooms. Even if you don’t stay here, you can visit the museum. Everybody says that this is such an awesome hotel.
How to get from Jerusalem to Bethlehem
Buses leave all day from the station right in front of Damascus Gate, in the Old City of Jerusalem. It takes less than 1 hour but it all depends on the mood of the Israeli authorities when crossing the border. Cost: 7ISL (2USD).
Hebron – Day 5-6
Why go? One of the most interesting places to visit in Palestine but also, the most troubled. Hebron is the only city where Jewish settlements are within the city itself. The tension is extreme, which can be seen at every corner of the city. The Mosque and Synagogue at the Cave of the Patriarchs, one of the holiest sites for both Jews and Muslims, are separated by bulletproof glass. It’s insane.
There is so much to say about this. I’ve written a full article about it: Visiting Hebron, the most troubled city in Palestine
Do you want to visit Hebron with a passionate, professional local guide, who will tell you everything about the political situation?
CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE
Things to do in Hebron – Highlights
Arab side (H1) – What used to be a busy market, full of joy and happiness, is today nothing but a semi-abandoned area, whose inhabitants can’t avoid expressing their hatred of the settlers. The old Arab quarter is full of deserted streets with random walls placed in the middle of them by the Israeli authorities. Most of the windows are protected to prevent the settlers from throwing objects at them.
Mosque and Synagogue of the Cave of the Patriarchs – A very holy placefor both Arabs and Jews, this is the place where Abraham, one of the most important figures for both religions, is buried. His tomb is located right in between the synagogue and the mosque, separated by bulletproof glass. Crazy.
Jewish Side (H2) –It’s also important to go and see how the settlers live. I suggest you go there and try to talk with an Israeli. Many of them, will be happy to share their side of the story with you, as they also want to end with their international bad reputation.
Remember to check my article for further info:Visiting Hebron, the most troubled city in Palestine
Herbawi Kuffiya factory – In Palestine, there is the first and only kuffiya factory (Palestinian scarf) that has ever existed in Palestine. For further details, read this post: The Art of the Palestinian scarf – Visiting the kuffiya factory in Hebron.
Where to stay in Hebron
Budget Hostel – Hostel Hebron – The most popular hostel in Hebron. With a set of pretty new facilities and awesome reviews, this hostel is located next to the old city.
Mid-range Hotel – Queen Plaza – If you don’t want to stay in a hostel, Queen Plaza is the most popular mid-range option in town and has very good reviews.
Couchsurfing at Mo’s– Mo is a Palestinian who has hosted over hundreds of people in Hebron. He was more than happy to be included in my guide Meeting Mo was one of the highlights of my trip!
How to get from Bethlehem to Hebron
Buses leave from the station which is closer to Hebron Road. Here: 31.709617, 35.199298. Price: 9ISL ($2.50).
Ramallah – Day 7-8
Why go? Home to a large expat community, Ramallah is a cosmopolitan city where you can hang out for few days in its numerous pubs and restaurants, besides visiting Yasser’s Arafat’s Tomb and the Historical Museum. Ramallah will definitely surprise you.
Things to do in Ramallah – Highlights
The Mausoleum and Museum – The place where the former President Yasser Arafat is buried and also a Historical Museum that showcases the story of Palestine from the Israeli-Palestinian conflict perspective.
Taybeh brewery (Day Trip) – Yes, a brewery!Located in Taybeh, the town with the largest proportion of Christians, this is the first micro-brewery ever founded in Palestine. In the mornings, they offer free tours and a beer tasting for free. You can also buy additional beers at 7ISL (2USD) per bottle.
How to get to Taybeh: Mini-vans leave from the main station and cost 7ISL (2USD). It’s a very small village, so you’ll find the microbrewery easily.
Nightlife in Ramallah – A visit to Ramallah is not complete without getting drank at any of its many bars and pubs. The locals recommended Garage, Fuego and Sangria’sto me.
Where to stay in Ramallah
Budget Hostel –Hostel In Ramallah – A cool hostel located in the city center with which is run by two brothers. Dorm mattresses are pretty comfy and they also have private rooms for couples. There’s a cool, friendly atmosphere. The breakfast is quite poor though and, at night, for a couple of USD, they cook a special dinner with products from their own farm.
Super Budget Hostel – Area D Hostel – For the most budget backpackers, Area D is a pretty popular hostel. Unlike the other two, this one is located near Ramallah Park Terminus, with great views of the mosque and its minarets.
Mid-range hotel – Lavender Boutique Hotel – For travelers with a mid-range budget, this hotel seems pretty decent and a great choice.
How to get from Hebron to Ramallah
From the main bus station in Hebron (Location:31.528543, 35.095612), mini-vansleave all day long. Price:27ISL (7.50USD), for a 53km trip.
Nablus – Day 9-10
Things to do in Nablus – Highlights
Why go? Located in a beautiful valley between Mount Ebal and Gerizim, Nablus is a real off the beaten track destination, home to, perhaps, the most beautiful Old City in the Middle East, with plenty of narrow alleys filled with sweet and olive oil shops. Nablus is a vibrant Muslim city and the authentic Palestine where you will find the friendliest locals and the best food.
The Old City – Wandering around the huge Old Town (Qasaba) is definitely the highlight of any trip to Nablus. And guess what. Around the alleys of Qasaba you will also find the most colorful job in the Middle East.
Kunafeh! – Kunafeh, oh… yes! This dangerously delicious cheese-based pastry with orange syrup on top that can be found across the country is originally from Nablus and, Al-Aksa, a shop located in the Old City, serves what is considered the best kunafeh in Palestine and, of course, in the world. A piece of kunafeh typically costs 5ISL (1.40USD). If you don’t eat kunafeh, you haven’t visited Palestine.
Samaritans – According to the Samaritans, Mt Gerizim, one of the mountains that form the valley around Nablus, was the first piece of land that was ever created. The Samaritans are a religious group which is very close to Judaism, even though they don’t like people to say that.
The largest community of Samaritans in the world are in Nablus and they live in peace with their Muslim neighbors. They live at the top of Mt Gerizim, where you can find a museum explaining their history, and the only liquor store in town! Location:32.200556,35.273333.
Where to stay in Nablus
Budget – Success Hostel –The most backpacking-friendly hostel in Nablus. Located in the city center, it has relatively fancy rooms, given the fact that it’s a hostel. The best option for budget travelers.
Mid-range –Khan Alwakala Hotel – This may be the most beautiful hotel you have ever stayed in Palestine, as it’s located in such a beautiful building which has been restored by the UNESCO. The rooms and facilities are great and despite being such a nice hotel, it’s not that expensive and perfect for mid-range travelers.
How to get from Nablus to Ramallah
We took a big bus from the main station and paid only 11ISL(3USD) for a 52km ride.
Jericho – Day 11-14
Why go?At 400 meters below sea level, this is considered the lowest city on Earth and, with 10,000 years of history, it is also the oldest inhabited city in the world. Disturbingly hot in summer but pleasant in winter, Jericho is a desert city with the largest number of touristic sites ranging from stunning Christian monasteries to ancient ruins, awesome hikes, a Bedouin culture and the gate to the Dead Sea, although it is not under Palestinian control but Israel’s.
If you are short in time and want to visit Jericho, you can book one of GetYourGuide tours. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE
Things to do in Jericho – Highlights
Saint George Koziba monastery – Located in Wadi Quelt, this is another beautiful Greek Orthodox monastery carved into the rocks. The entrance is free but I recommend you go there early, before the place gets filled with endless pilgrims and tourists. Dress modestly, otherwise, you won’t be allowed to get in. Inside the monastery, they offer water, tea and coffee, for free.
Trekking to Wadi Qelt – Wadi Qelt is a valley that connects Jericho with Jerusalem. Around 10km after Jericho, there are some natural springs that make an excellent day trek through rolling arid hills, Bedouin camps and striking views of the valley. Some parts of the springs are deep enough to swim in. On weekends, you might find some groups of Palestinians enjoying a picnic day. Of course, expect invitations to join them.
Monastery of Temptation – Apparently, this is the place where Jesus spent 40 days and 40 nights meditating and fasting during the temptation of Satan. Today, instead, you can find another Greek Orthodox monastery which is the third architectural masterpiece built on a cliff. From the monastery, you get awesome views of Jericho, the Dead Sea and the mountains of Jordan. You can easily walk to the top but, for 30ISL (8USD), you can also go up by cable car.
Hisham’s Palace – Constructed in the 8th Century (arguably), these Islamic ruins were just the second residence of some kings but they contain some of the most well-preserved Islamic mosaics that have ever been discovered. The entrance ticket is 10ISL (2.70USD).
Where to stay in Jericho
Budget Hostel – Sami Hostel – Not the best hostel ever but it is definitely the cheapest choice. It is located in Jericho’s refugee camp, a bit out of the way but there is a direct bus that runs every couple of minutes. The owner is OK and there are many backpackers.
Nicer – AubergInn – Pricier but the location is excellent and it is one of the best-punctuated hostels in town. It’s run by a lovely local family and it even has a pool, which gives it quite an edge, given the fact that Jericho is one of the hottest places in the world.
Extending your itinerary
Jenin (2 extra days)
Why go?The least visited part of Palestine, Jenin is a cozy, little city with a beautiful old town, surrounded by beautiful green scenery.
Things to see in Jenin
Besides wandering around the old town, in Jenin, there is also a refugee camp where foreigners are more than welcome. Inside the camp, there is a famous NGO called the Freedom Theater, where you can volunteer, even for a short period of time of 1 or 2 weeks. In the hostel where I stayed, I was the only person who was not volunteering there. You can find more information about the NGO here.
Where to stay in Jenin
NGO Hostel – Cinema Guest House – As far as I know, this is the only guest house in town. Like I said,most guests are volunteers working at the Freedom Theater. It’s OK for a few nights and there’s a nice atmosphere. However, I think it’s quite pricey for what you get.
How to get to Jenin
From Nablus, we took a direct bus for just 10ISL (2.70USD), 50km.
Zababdeh (2 extra days)
Why go? This barely visited part of Palestine is home to the most beautiful scenery in the region, composed of green rolling hills, olive oil trees and where you’ll be likely to see wild turtles. In Zababdeh, we also had an unexpected, peculiar experience. Read more below on ”Where to stay section”.
Things to see in Zababdeh
Besides visiting the church built on the place where, supposedly, the Virgin Mary spent one night on her way to Bethlehem, Zababdeh is the place from where to go on short day hikes throughmountain villages, fields and green rolling hills. I recommend you go hiking around Raba, a village located 6km from Zababdeh.
Where to stay in Zababdeh
When traveling in Palestine I heard of someone called Father Firas, who was a Christian priest from Zababdeh. I was told he liked to host foreigners at his church, so I decided to give him a call. Father Firaz is not only a priest but a man with a lot of influence throughout the region.
For the last few years, he has been trying to build bridges with Israel through meeting people and getting contacts from all over the world.
He is a wise man from whom you will learn a lot about the conflict between Israel and Palestine. We spent 3 nights at his church and he blessed us with tremendous hospitality. I can’t recommend Father Firas’ guest house highly enough.
Note that you don’t need to be a religious person to stay at his house but just someone interested in the conflict and history of the country. Several journalists and writers have stayed here. There is no fixed price and he will tell you to pay as much as you want.
Contact him at firas_khoury@yahoo.com or cure_zab@yahoo.com. Phone number: +972599789282. When you arrive in Zababdeh, just ask for Father Firas. Everybody knows him.
How to get to Zababdeh
Zababdeh is only 10km from Jenin, from where you can take a mini-van for just 5ISL (1.40USD).
Qalqilya (1 day)
Why go? If you are interested in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, after Hebron, this is a super interesting place, since this is the village most affected by the construction of the separation wall, as it practically surrounds the whole community, completely drowning its economy.
Many fields owned by Palestinians were left on the other side of the wall, so the Palestinian farmers have to go through insane security checks every single day.
If this was not enough, the different checkpoints are only open during certain, alternate hours a day, so quite often, the Palestinian farmers have to wait for hours at their fields before they can go back home.
The saddest part is that Qalqilya doesn’t receive the international attention that Bethlehem does, so instead of having a wall filled with cool Banksy paintings, there you just find an 8 meters gray, sad, concrete wall, 8-meters high.
How to get to Qalqilya
You can easily go by bus from Nablus on a day trip. That’s what I did.
❗ More information for visiting Palestine
📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.
Tours – I always encourage independent travel but, if you are short in time, or just feel safer with a local guide, there are loads of tours available, and I recommend you book them via GetYourguide, as you can book them with just one click, have free cancellation, and always count with professional local guides.
For Palestine: CLICK HERE TO SEE ALL THE AVAILABLE TOURS
For Israel:CLICK HERE TO SEE ALL THE AVAILABLE TOURS
All guides and articles for traveling in Palestine destination
- A City Guide to Gaza
- Travel Guide to Hebron
- A Guide to Kuffiya Factory in Hebron
- Palestinian Refugee Camp in Bethlehem
- Things to know about Palestine
Travel guides to other countries in the Middle East
- Iran Travel Guide
- Iraq Travel Guide
- Travel Guide to Oman
- Travel Guide to Lebanon
- Syria Travel Guide
- Travel Guide to Saudi Arabia
- Yemen Travel Guide
You will also be interested in: Where in the Middle East is safe? and The most beautiful places in the Middle East.
Thanks for writing this is a super helpful post. I just wanted to ask some questions:
1. If you’re coming from Israel, I assume you took Qalandia border crossing in? If you did, how was your experience there?
2. Do the officers at the border crossings/ airports ask you a lot of questions for staying in Palestine for so long?
3. I think I read somewhere in your blog that you’ve lived in Dubai for a while, and you may or may not be able to speak Arabic. So did you have any trouble understanding Palestinian Arabic as it was spoken on the street?
Hi, thank you for your comment. My answers:
1 – I entered from Jerusalem but, when I went to Qalandia, I re-entered Israel just to see how was there, as the border in Qalandia is the most f*cked up border. In Jerusalem it was super smooth but in Qalandoa, it was very slow
2 – They do ask some questions but you just tell them the truth and it’s all right.
3 – I don’t understand Arabic but a lot of Palestinians speak English
cheers
Thanks for the info! Hopefully I can repeat your itinerary soon 🙂
No problem, any time!
Awesome article man, a side of the world rarely seen. Keep them coming 🙂
Thanks, man!
Stumbled on this article while searching for travel agencies in Palestine, and just got way more information about the country than I probably would on wikipedia. Good job, the world needs to know about this beautiful country and their people and it’s good to know that freelance journalist like yourself are taking the trouble to visit there and bring us this formation. We are in the middle of launching a company for everything related to tours and hopefully maybe we’d be able to partner or work with you in some sort way. I’ve subscribed to follow up comments will be coming back to check up.
Cheers
Hello, I might be interested in working with a tourist agency in Palestine. Please, email me at joan@againstthecompass.com
Hi, this an interesting article. You have described very well. The really descriptive post you have shared with us.
thank you
Thanks so much for this information! It was a great resource for me. I just would like to suggest revising your bus/serveece prices because they are not accurate. Bus from Jerusalem (Damascus Gate) to Bethlehem is only 7 shekels. Serveece from Bethlehem to Hebron is 9 shekels. Palestine is an amazing place with incredibly friendly people. I hope to go back sometime soon so I can get through all of the other stuff on your list! Cheers
I am glad you enjoyed Palestine and its people. They are awesome! And thank you so much for your correction, I just updated it accordingly 🙂 Cheers,
Hi! Thank you so much for sharing this comprehensive itinerary and background. Palestine is a region I have been dreaming of visiting all my life and hope to do so this year, but I have been contemplating whether to join an organized tour or plan this out all on my own. The tours are quite pricey, but it definitely saves the hassle of coordinating visas, transportation, and general travel and accommodation. I am a female and will likely travel with my brother and maybe others. With that in mind, think it might work best like you suggest to do some parts with a tour company while spending more time in areas I am interested in on my own. How much would you say your two week itinerary costed you overall?
Hello, I spent around 25-30USD a day. I travel independently, always sleep in the most budget hotels/hostels (15USD a day) and eat at local places. If you want to stay in mid-range places and hire a guide it will be significantly more expensive.
Hi Joam
Thank’s for sharing. I will go there soon on a revisit together with my 6 year old son, and we will probably stay only in Palestine.
Since you love off-the-beaten-track places you will probably like my site, too: https://www.traveltwins.dk/
Best,
Anders
Good luck in the West Bank and thanks for the suggestion!
This was fantastic to read. Thanks so much for sharing! I’m looking to go here and Israel this year, and it’s so nice to see this type of perspective written on the West Bank. This just makes me more excited to go! Thanks for taking the time to write all this up!
Hi Ellie, thanks for your kind comment! I am glad you find it useful. There is so much to exñore beyond Bethlehem and historical sites in Jericho. Have a wonderful trip there!
Loved it!! Very informative.
Cheers!
Love the way you travel 🙂 very nice and beautiful pictures!
Thank you 🙂
awesome! loved this post
cheers, enjoy Palestine!
Hello buddy, this was a great piece to read and very informative. It answered many of my questions.
However, I have few questions which hopefully you would be able to answer. If I land in Israel at Tel Aviv with an Indian passport and then need to go West Bank, then which check points or immigration centres do I have to use and clear. Also when rerurning back from West Bank to Israel, how many check points or immigration centers I have to clear so I can reach back to tel aviv airport easily.
Either way, there is only one checkpoint when entering the west bank and one when you get out. Most of the times, the checkpoint is very quick. It is seriously not a big deal.
Thanks for the quick response. Really interesting what you are doing by visiting these amazing palces which are not covered well by the media and tourism industry. So what is next on your bucket list?
First of all thank you very much for a wonderful 2 weeks tour itinerary for Palestine. I very rarely been to Arab and African countries so far, but I have plans to tour around Africa region in near future. Your complete tour itinerary for Palestine helps me to grab some ideas for my next tour, in between the photos look great. Cheers,
cheers!
Very informative article ! Could you also please let us know more about the local Vegetarian/Vegan Food availability and recommendations ?
falafels, hummus, fateh… There are always many options
Thanks and very informative. We are group of 4 Chinese ladies and we want to visit Nablus Jacob’s well etc. Do u know if it is fine for us to visit on our own without a guide?
If your question is related to safety in Palestine, yes, you will be totally fine 🙂
Hello! Great post! Just a quick question, if I were to cross the King Hussein/Allenby border from Jordan, would it make sense to go to Jericho first? Is there a way to get to Jericho from the border without having to go to Jerusalem? Thanks!
Hey Maddie, yes of course, Jericho is extremely close to the border, and for very little money, you can get a taxi
I’m so glad to have come across your article!! So I’m originally Palestinian and planning my first trip ever this July. I’ll be traveling with my husband who will have to enter through the boarder and not airport. We only have 5 days what would you recommend we must visit while maximizing short stopovers on the way like stopping by Jericho since it’s close to border. We don’t mind splurging on this trip as I’ve been waiting for over 3 decades to be granted entry to Palestine.
Thank you in advance
Dude your work is awesome and so helpful thank you. Do you have an Instagram account?
Hi Nimr, thanks! My IG account is @againstthecompass
Free palestine 🇵🇸🇵🇸 from the river to the sea from israeli colonialism
